對(duì)于Iniye Tokyo James來說，過去兩年就像坐過山車一樣。作為一個(gè)品牌，我們一直在追求眾所周知的火爆時(shí)刻。這一路走來并不容易，但我們一直在努力，他說到這段時(shí)期，他獲得了2022年路威酩軒獎(jiǎng)(LVMH Prize)的提名，并在《墻紙》(Wallpaper) 2022年9月刊的新男裝設(shè)計(jì)師作品集中看到了他的特色。這位尼日利亞裔英國設(shè)計(jì)師于2015年創(chuàng)立了自己的同名品牌;他的目的是讓自己的遺產(chǎn)在視覺上有意義，并提出兩個(gè)看似對(duì)立的地點(diǎn)之間的對(duì)話。衣服有不成文的溝通方式。當(dāng)我剛開始的時(shí)候，這是關(guān)于表現(xiàn);為從未真正有過發(fā)言權(quán)的創(chuàng)作者發(fā)聲。詹姆斯最出名的或許是他的裁縫，他將薩維爾街的精準(zhǔn)與植根于尼日利亞的紡織品、調(diào)色板、輪廓和圖案融合在一起;想想看，單排扣的蕾絲運(yùn)動(dòng)上衣和用復(fù)雜的爬行動(dòng)物、兩棲動(dòng)物和昆蟲刺繡的外套。正是這些細(xì)微的差別，讓我們都熱愛，讓我們走到一起。他說。Tokyo James是New Blooms’ New Blooms’的一部分，New Blooms’是六個(gè)嶄露頭角的男裝品牌重新播種時(shí)尚版圖的概況;《墻紙》雜志2022年9月刊(W*281)拉各斯的工作室還展示了一個(gè)地下人才孵化器，擁有下一代設(shè)計(jì)師、攝影師、造型師和一個(gè)另類模特經(jīng)紀(jì)公司，所有人都在這里以不同的能力運(yùn)作。

 

For Iniye Tokyo James, the last two years have been a rollercoaster. ‘As a brand we have been going for the proverbial hot minute. It hasn’t been an easy ride, but we keep pushing,’ he says of the period, which peaked with a nomination for the 2022 LVMH Prize, and sees him feature in our portfolio of emerging menswear designers in the September 2022 Style Issue of Wallpaper*.The Nigerian-British designer founded his eponymous line in 2015; his aim was to make visual sense of his own heritage and propose a dialogue between two seemingly opposing locations. ‘Clothes have unwritten ways of communicating. When I initially started it was about representation; giving a voice to a sector of creators who never really had a voice.’James is perhaps best known for his tailoring, which melds Savile Row precision with textiles, palettes, silhouettes, and motifs that are rooted in Nigeria – think single-breasted blazers in corded lace and coats finished with intricate embroidery of reptiles, amphibians and insects. ‘It is those little nuances that we all love and bring us together,’ he says.New menswear: Tokyo James A/W 2022 Tokyo James is part of ‘New Blooms’, a profile of ‘six budding menswear labels resowing the fashion landscape’ in Wallpaper’s September 2022 Style Issue (W*281)A visit to James’ studio in Lagos also reveals an underground talent incubator with next-generation designers, photographers, stylists and an alternative modelling agency, all operating in various capacities from the premises. ‘We have always been about community-building. For us, luxury is an emotion but more importantly, it is about people.’